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Archive for the ‘Purchasing Used Inflatable Boat’ Category
An inflatable boat is an economical boat that’s simple to maintain. An inflatable makes boating an economical sport. Inexpensive at purchase, simple to use, cheap and easy to maintain and their resale is relatively easy with good residual value.
- Reassuring stability: The stability of an inflatable, thanks to its large buoyancy tubes and resulting low center of gravity, is such that under normal circumstances it is practically impossible to capsize. This quality, which is essential to safe confident navigating, is especially appreciated by divers and fisherman.
- Their maintenance is straight forward.
- Boating can be economical. No mooring charges.
- Their resale is relatively easy with good residual value.
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One of the biggest problems when first looking at second-hand or used inflatable kayak, is how to tell if the craft is really what you need. Some inflatable kayaks look very spartan and commercially orientated and therefore are unsuitable for family and sports use, however, these craft may be very tough and provide an excellent safe sea boat albeit without any luxuries. Other inflatable kayak may look very well fitted with comfortable seating, flashy consoles and plenty of instruments, but this does not mean necessarily that the hull is very capable in typical sea conditions. Quite recently a number of inflatable kayak manufacturers have introduced a number of creature comforts which include thickly padded seating with grab handles and other features.
Most makes of inflatable kayaks are a safe bet when looking for a sound investment and used prices are very strong, thus buying a new or used kayak is generally a much better financial proposition than a GRP sports boat or open day boat which tend to depreciate very quickly. Perhaps because of their versatility and general social acceptance in marinas and harbours etc, where sports boats can be frowned upon, that kayaks are new in the majority and to be on the water during a weekend confirms their amazing popularity.
Buying a used, or as the posh used car trade call them, previously owned, inflatable kayaks can be a very confusing and in some cases expensive pastime. Buying a used inflatable kayak should be straightforward providing basic inspection shows no obvious flaws. Generally speaking, what you see is what you get and there should be no reason to suppose that if the tubes and hull appear fair that there are any hidden problems; however, the following obvious tips should provide a guide to the main problem areas.
Repairs Check
Check for major repairs to the inflatable kayak buoyancy tubes. If there are professional repairs evident, then this should not present any problems; however, half stuck patches may indicate an amateur repair and these should be attended to as soon as possible.
Blown Baffles
Check for blown inflatable kayak buoyancy tube baffles. This is easily checked by deflating the adjoining tube and inflating the inflated one to sufficient pressure so as to provide a firm and correctly inflated section. Any air transfer will be heard escaping into the deflated chamber. Place your ear close to the baffle (division between air chambers) of the inflated tube to magnify the noise.
Seams
Many inflatable kayak seams are covered by tape which can become detached or start lifting. On some kayaks, this is purely a protective tape covering the main seam below, however, on other makes, especially where the tape is the same fabric as the boat and not just a light weight tape, then this may be main attachment between seams. If the former applies, then is nothing to worry about and a little glue will re-stick the tape easily. However, if the heavier wider tape appears to be lifting, consult an expert before proceeding with the purchase. On certain makes of boat, this can be the beginning of the scams becoming unglued and this can prove very expensive to put right. Some early PVC and polyurethane tubes were particularly prone to seam problems and when unsure as to the type of fabric in use, again, contact the manufacturers or an expert to ascertain the likely problems.
Hull to Tube Attachment
Careful inspection of the inflatable kayak will show up any problem in this area and common sense should prevail, however, check for tell tale glue stains on the tube which may indicate a previous problem that has been hastily repaired.
Glue Smears
Dark brown smears which are difficult to remove around the inflatable kayak tube joint may be just a careless clean up job from new; however, it may be a repair so ask the seller and have a go at pulling at the fabric in that area to ensure the stick is good. Tubes that become detached at sea do not amuse the crew, although it has been known to create mirth amongst onlookers.
Hull Integrity
Check the inflatable kayak hull/floor for serious crazing, especially along the spray rails and chines. Any longitudinal cracks should be treated with great suspicion, but, even worse is a hairline crack that runs across the beam of the hull. This may indicate that the boat has a weakness which could result in an expensive repair or even worse a hull that is flexing due to loss of longitudinal strength through severe use or accidental damage. Any cracks should be checked thoroughly and a surveyor should be consulted if in any doubt. Minor star grazing, compression cracks and chips in the chines are generally cosmetic rather than structurally dangerous. To repeat, whenever in doubt get a surveyor or walk away.
Floor
This is seldom a problem although inflatable kayak floors may become spongy. This can be caused by the floor becoming detached from its bearers or the plywood base becoming damaged through water or fuel ingression.
Seating
Check for any obvious damage and condition of the upholstery, seat hinges etc. but, otherwise, nothing particularly serious should occur in this area; however, check the floor attachment area to ensure the seat does not break out.
Complete Package
Finally, check the engine-trailer-inflatable kayak package are compatible and have been regularly maintained. Kayaks that are hardly used hardly used can be just as troublesome as heavily used craft and vice versa. Outfits that have been properly maintained are usually reliable and well found and can provide a worthwhile investment for the buyer.
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As you may already know, specialization in the design of today’s inflatable boats is now in the forefront of the minds of the manufacturers and designers. Each distinct group is specifically designed for a different set of applications and is built and equipped with different components and equipment. Most inflatable boats today fall within one these specific categories.
If all you need is a small inflatable boat to get you from ship to shore, then a typical inflatable tender is the best answer. If you’re after a medium sized boat for diving or watersports there are many choices as well. If a large rigid-hulled inflatable (Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB) for recreation, rescue or work is what you need, there are again many exotic designs available with a wide variety of standard and optional components. The choice of inflatable boats is quite wide through the entire spectrum, ranging from very compact models with simple slatted or inflatable floors, to larger tenders with inflatable or wooden keels and solid wooden or aluminum floors, up to the fiberglass or aluminum rigid-hulled inflatables. To avoid confusion, before buying, or even shopping for an inflatable, discuss and decide on exactly what the uses or requirements will be for your new inflatable boat. This will minimize the models to choose from, which in turn will minimize confusion.
Dealer Location and Reputation
The location of the inflatable boat dealer is important because you don’t want to have to travel too far for you inflatable boat needs. Whether it’s parts, repairs or just technical support and friendly customer service tips, a close dealer can be a close friend. In particular, as a new boat owner and perhaps new to inflatable boats, you may have questions, need to claim warranty, or need regular servicing to maintain a warranty. Any way you look at it, closer is better.
Pricing
Years ago, inflatable boats where the most expensive boats on the market and only a few people could afford them. This was due to the use of exotic materials and the hours of meticulous hand labor which went into their construction. Now, the boats still use the best materials, but in the late seventies, the companies started investing millions of dollars in computer-driven assembly equipment. This enabled prices to be dramatically reduced as economies of scale rose, enabling more and more consumers to enjoy affordable inflatable boating. Zodiac and its sister company, Sevylor, are now the leading low-cost producer thanks to these technological investments. So be wary of inflatable prices substantially below the Zodiac/Sevylor line. They may be either produced in developing countries by unskilled labor, or marketed by companies who are unaware of the importance of profit margins. They will be glad to see your dollar today but may be unwilling or unable to fix a problem later, or supply that much needed spare part.
Warranties
You may be enamored with inflatable boat competitor’s claims, all of whom will promise they have the best or longest warranty. There was even a lifetime warranty offered some years ago by an inflatable boat company that soon enough disappeared. A lot of manufacturers use attractive warranties as a substitute for quality or proper boat design, or simply to shore up a lack of product features. You should also be sure in your own mind that the company will be around long enough to deliver. Zodiac has been building inflatables for over 50 years and offers a limited 5-year warranty. And they have the whereforall to be around for a long time.
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We have put together some key points for you to consider when looking for that dream rigid inflatable boats or RIB to buy. We have also appended a ‘ Check List ‘ which can be used as an aide memoir when pondering your impending decision.
Our views and opinions are not exhaustive and we recommend that you talk to trusted others, who may have additional information. RIBs are a large investment and we strongly recommend that you obtain advice from a qualified surveyor, before you splash your cash. They are however great fun and should give you hours of pleasure and adventure. Don’t forget to try out as many different makes of RIB as you can before you buy.
RIBs have progressed from the utilitarian 4×4 of the sea, initially developed for rescue and military use. Today the recreational use of RIBs is well established. The massive inherent buoyancy, low centre of gravity, and high power to weight ratio has made today’s RIBs thoroughbreds of the sea. The RIB can be an extremely fast, safe seaboat, when properly handled, and is seen in many guises as harbour runabouts, rescue lifeboats, luxury tenders on megayachts, adventure craft on cruise liners, race and cruise boats and others besides.
The EEC issued a Recreational Craft Directive in June 1994 which also covers the design and construction of RIBs. Reputable RIB builders have progressively adopted this directive since this time.
The directive identifies four Boat Design Categories:
A – Ocean: Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force F8 (Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4m and above, and the vessel largely self sufficient.
B – Offshore: Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to and including wind force F8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.
C – Inshore: Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to and including wind force F6 and significant wave heights up to and including 2m may be experienced.
D – Sheltered Waters: Designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals where conditions up to and including wind force F4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.5m may be experienced.
Boats from builders who meet the EEC directive will have two identification plates attached on the RIB.
Hull Identification with:
Manufacturer’s code
Country of manufacture
Unique serial number
Year of production
Model year
Builder’s Plate with:
Manufacturer’s name
CE Marking
Boat design category
Manufacturer’s maximum recommended load
Number of persons recommended to be carried
What Type of RIB interests you?
You will probably have already seen many different deck layouts, so what are these?
Rescue / Commercial / Services
Smaller craft are often used by sailing clubs as safety cover and organisations such as the RNLI use larger models fitted out with twin engine motors and self righting gear. Commercial models generally used for pilots and by the maritime protection agencies often have a wheelhouse. Services RIBs are usually about 7m, used by the marines and other waterborne forces. Some types are be recognised by the grey or olive green colouration of both hull and tubes. You may spot the odd ‘black’ special services or smugglers model, but don’t ask too many questions or else they may have to kill you!
Diving:
Divers usually sit on the inflatable tubes, including the Cox on some smaller models, leaving plenty of deck space for kit and “treasure trove”. A single helm console, jockey seat and bottle rack are the norm. The tubes are set close to the waterline and in some cases the hull freefloods to provide maximum stability at rest.
Sports & Cruising:
Moulded consoles and upholstered seating, stowage lockers, some even have a bathing ladder and shower facility. A Cruising RIB is quite capable of an English Channel crossing with a range up to 120 miles. Often with a minimum of between 4 and 6 seats and serious electronics packages. Cabins are also to be found on some models.
Racing:
High-performance deep-V and more recently stepped hulled craft. Normally they have only two seats. These craft are capable of speeds in excess of 100 mph but more typically 50 -70 mph. Special designs with lightweight but strong construction, perhaps using kevlar composite material in the build.
What to Look For – Key Parts of a RIB
Hull & Deck
Inspect the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray rails and chines. Hairline cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks are the principal elements to look out for. Either of these could indicate substantial damage. Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat’s appearance, but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and inexpensive repair job.
Deck and transom damage is rare. However, points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of expense. Check the transom around its base and its bearer’s knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can be common, but generally do not indicate major damage. Nevertheless, check carefully.
Seating and console upholstery condition are visually easy to see, but do check the deck attachment of the console, the seat hinges and the watertightness of any integral storage areas.
Check the location of fuel tanks and battery, do you really want them both located in the same deck space? One spark and perhaps a ‘bang’! Inspect all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage. Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be replaced. This can be quite expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility into account.
Tubes
Inspect the buoyancy tubes for major repairs. Check for half stuck patches as they are a good indicator of an amateur repair job and consequent hidden dangers. Such patches should be attended to as soon as possible.
Check for previous repairs to the tube attachment, usually spotted by glue stains. Pull at the fabric, to check that any gluing has been carried out properly. In particular check the seam at the bow, along each underside of the hull, the transom seams and the joining of the stern tube cones.
A lot of seams are covered by tape that can start to lift or become totally detached. While on some boats, the tape is purely a protective measure covering the main seam below (a little glue is all that is needed to rectify the problem) on others it is the main attachment. In the case of the latter, then this can be the beginning of the seams becoming unglued, which entails an expensive repair job.
The RIB should have a minimum of 3 independent air chambers, preferably more. To check the condition of the baffles (the divisions between the air chambers) deflate one tube at a time and inflate the other to a normal working pressure, 1.5 to 3.0 psi. With your ‘good’ ear pressed against the tube you should be able to hear any leakage of air from one chamber to another.
Engine & Steering
An inspection by a qualified person is the ideal solution; however, if this is not always possible, we do suggest that you carry out the following checks:
Remove the cowl and inspect the engine for general condition, a clean engine often indicates a careful owner. Look for signs of salt corrosion, most importantly around the cylinder head. With the engine running check that the water pump is functioning properly, pumping a sufficient volume of water to cool the engine. Look at the strength of the ‘tell tail’ which will give you a good indication. Overheating can cause serious damage to the pistons and bearings as well as twisting the cylinder head.
Check for wear in the swivel bracket and engine mounts by attempting to shake the engine, RIBs put huge loads on the engine mountings and suffer from this type of deterioration if the engine has not been properly checked and fittings tightened after every trip.
Check the propeller for damage and look to see if the bottom of the ‘skeg’ is also damaged, usually indicating that the engine has hit something at sometime. Take the engine out of gear (with ignition switched off!) and rotate the prop slowly by hand, checking to ensure that the propeller shaft is not bent. Again with the ignition switched off or the kill-cord out, put the engine in gear and pull the starter cord or turn the propeller by hand. You should be able to feel a resistance as each piston rises to compress the air in its cylinders.
Loosen the gearbox oil drainage plug and inspect what comes out. The oil should be thick and transparent. If it is not and appears to be thinner and murky, then water contamination may have taken place and consequently damaged the gears or bearings.
Ask to see a service history. You will probably be very lucky to find one, some enthusiasts do all their own servicing and maintenance.
Steering, usually cable or hydraulic on some of the larger engines or a combination of both. Check the free movement of all cables, it’s not uncommon for steering cables to seize. It’s recommended changing them anyway on a routine basis. Not expensive but sometimes fiddly. Check condition of all fittings to steering box and engine. If hydraulic steering, check oil level and look for leaks. Move steering and check for ‘play’.
General Equipment
Personal choice largely dictates what equipment should be on the RIB, expect that not every pre-owned (let alone new) RIB will come complete with all the equipment considered to be prudent to take to sea. To give you a general idea we have listed below some items that should be considered as part of the purchase of a used RIB.
Anchor and Line
An anchor of a weight and type adequate to hold the boat with at least 30 metres (inshore), 50 metres (offshore) of line with 3 metres of chain.
Bailers and Bilge Pumps
Bailers or buckets and either manual, automatic or electric bilge pumps (particularly on inboard engine installations).
Fire Extinguisher
A fire extinguisher. Inboard engines should have an automatic fire extinguisher system installed in the engine compartment.
Hand or Foot Pump
A hand or foot pump capable of being operated below the gunwale.
Paddles
A minimum of two paddles.
Painter/Mooring Lines
Painter and mooring lines. The painter should be shorter than the length of the boat so as not to foul the propeller should it fall into the water whilst underway.
Towing Points
Cleats, eyes and samson posts strong enough to tow the boat when waterlogged.
The items above are those which mainly ‘look after the boat’. Other important safety items, e.g. compass, flares, lifejackets, VHF radio, medical kit, charts, etc., should be carried. You can obtain professional advice on these items from your local maritime safety agency or national boating association.
Trailer
Used trailers are generally in a poor condition and can sometimes seem to be more of a liability than an asset. (But not always, especially if the RIB has been regularly moved from cruise to cruise area). Ensure it fits the boat, providing sufficient support, and determine the existence and extent of rust, particularly in any box sections.
Brakes often become seized due to their frequent immersion in salt water, so don’t be put off immediately if this is the case. However, do check carefully how easily they release. Inspect the cables, making sure they appear to be good condition. Lastly, check the brakes don’t scrape or bind when the trailer is being towed.
Jack up the trailer and check for play in the wheel bearings. Also spin the wheel, listening for noise from the bearings. If the bearings are noisy, then the trailer is not in a good state to tow the boat. Always carry a spare wheel bearing when towing on road.
Check the Draw Bar and Hitch ensuring that the coupling bolts are tight. Brake the trailer and attempt to manoeuvre the hitch, checking for wear. Try to push the hitch back towards the trailer, it should slide slowly with some resistance. It should not slip in easily or seize up.
Winch mechanism; check the strap for deterioration. If there is a winch wire, then you’re better off replacing it with a strap, as this is a much safer option. Inspect the winch mechanism for jammed or worn pawls.
Trailer board; check that there is one, and that all lights are working.
Finally: – Try your prospective RIB buy on the water.
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Purchasing A Used Inflatable Boat or Kayak: Buying Tips
posted by The Captain @ 11:51 AM
Thursday, October 13, 2011
One of the biggest problems when shopping for a used inflatable boat, inflatable kayak or RIB, is how to tell if the craft meets your needs. Some inflatable boats or inflatable kayaks appear to look spartan and commercially orientated and therefore are unsuitable for family and sporting use, however, these inflatable boats may provide an excellent safe boat albeit without any luxuries.
Inflatable boats and kayaks are a great way to enjoy the waters without having to pay thousands of dollars. RIBs are generally a sound investment as used boat prices are very strong, thus making it a great financial investment over such boats as the GRP sport boats or traditional sport boats which tend to depreciate very quickly.
Buying a used inflatable boat, such as a RIB, can be very confusing at times, however, it is usually the mechanics of the engine and soundness of the trailer which require the most attention. Engine problems can be quite costly and having a thorough inspection on the inflatable boat before purchase could save you money.
Here are a few things we recommend you check when buying a used inflatable boat:
- Check for major repairs to the buoyancy tubes. Half stuck patches may indicate an amateur repair and these should be attended to as soon as possible.
- Careful inspection of the hull to tube attachments should show any problems in this area and common sense should prevail, however, check for tell-tale glue stains on the GRP and tube as this could indicate a previous problem that has been hastily repaired.
- Check around the fuel tank for rust or old fuel as breakdowns at sea can often be attributed to polluted fuel.
- Consider having the engine inspected by a professional before purchasing, as engine repairs can be quite costly.
- Check to make sure the water pump is pumping through the correct volume of cooling water. Weak water flow is a good indicator that there might be a blocked outlet. If the pump is working incorrectly, overheating may have occurred and damage to the piston rings or bearings may have resulted.
- As per usual, the trailer requires visual attention, paying particular attention to the draw bar and hitch, ensuring that the ball locking system is safe and operating correctly.
- Wheel bearings and breaks, if fitted, are a major area for careful inspection. Breaks frequently become stiff or totally seized due to immersion in salt water and should be checked for correct rotation.
- The trailers wheel bearings should also be checked; spin the wheel and listen for bearing noise/rumble. If the bearings are noisy, do not attempt to tow the boat without first replacing the bearings
- Finally, inspect the winch, particularly the winch strap or wire.
Generally speaking, with used inflatable boats, what you see is what you get and there should be no reason to suppose that if the tubes and hull appear fair that there are any hidden problems; however, our recommended check list should help provide a guide to the main problem areas.
You may also be interested in:
Inflatable boat paint, a great way to repair your old inflatable boat
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