Hull & Deck
Inspect the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray rails and chines. Hairline cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks are the principal elements to look out for. Either of these could indicate substantial damage. Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat’s appearance, but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and inexpensive repair job.
Deck and transom damage is rare. However, points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of expense. Check the transom around its base and its bearer’s knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can be common, but generally do not indicate major damage. Nevertheless, check carefully.
Check the location of fuel tanks and battery, do you really want them both located in the same deck space? One spark and perhaps a ‘bang’! Inspect all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage. Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be replaced. This can be quite expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility into account.
Inspect the buoyancy tubes for major repairs. Check for half stuck patches as they are a good indicator of an amateur repair job and consequent hidden dangers. Such patches should be attended to as soon as possible.
Check for previous repairs to the tube attachment, usually spotted by glue stains. Pull at the fabric, to check that any gluing has been carried out properly. In particular check the seam at the bow, along each underside of the hull, the transom seams and the joining of the stern tube cones.
A lot of seams are covered by tape that can start to lift or become totally detached. While on some boats, the tape is purely a protective measure covering the main seam below (a little glue is all that is needed to rectify the problem) on others it is the main attachment. In the case of the latter, then this can be the beginning of the seams becoming unglued, which entails an expensive repair job.
The RIB should have a minimum of 3 independent air chambers, preferably more. To check the condition of the baffles (the divisions between the air chambers) deflate one tube at a time and inflate the other to a normal working pressure, 1.5 to 3.0 psi. With your ‘good’ ear pressed against the tube you should be able to hear any leakage of air from one chamber to another.
Engine & Steering
An inspection by a qualified person is the ideal solution; however, if this is not always possible, we do suggest that you carry out the following checks:
Remove the cowl and inspect the engine for general condition, a clean engine often indicates a careful owner. Look for signs of salt corrosion, most importantly around the cylinder head. With the engine running check that the water pump is functioning properly, pumping a sufficient volume of water to cool the engine. Look at the strength of the ‘tell tail’ which will give you a good indication. Overheating can cause serious damage to the pistons and bearings as well as twisting the cylinder head.
Check for wear in the swivel bracket and engine mounts by attempting to shake the engine, RIBs put huge loads on the engine mountings and suffer from this type of deterioration if the engine has not been properly checked and fittings tightened after every trip.
Check the propeller for damage and look to see if the bottom of the ‘skeg’ is also damaged, usually indicating that the engine has hit something at sometime. Take the engine out of gear (with ignition switched off!) and rotate the prop slowly by hand, checking to ensure that the propeller shaft is not bent. Again with the ignition switched off or the kill-cord out, put the engine in gear and pull the starter cord or turn the propeller by hand. You should be able to feel a resistance as each piston rises to compress the air in its cylinders.
Loosen the gearbox oil drainage plug and inspect what comes out. The oil should be thick and transparent. If it is not and appears to be thinner and murky, then water contamination may have taken place and consequently damaged the gears or bearings.
Ask to see a service history. You will probably be very lucky to find one, some enthusiasts do all their own servicing and maintenance.
Steering, usually cable or hydraulic on some of the larger engines or a combination of both. Check the free movement of all cables, it’s not uncommon for steering cables to seize. It’s recommended changing them anyway on a routine basis. Not expensive but sometimes fiddly. Check condition of all fittings to steering box and engine. If hydraulic steering, check oil level and look for leaks. Move steering and check for ‘play’.
Personal choice largely dictates what equipment should be on the RIRIB, expect that not every pre-owned (let alone new) RIB will come complete with all the equipment considered to be prudent to take to sea. The British Inflatable Boat Owners Association sets down its requirements for members who take their RIBs on the more challenging events and these can be found at: www.biboa.co.uk To give you a general idea we have listed below some items that should be considered as part of the purchase of a used RIB.
Anchor and Line
An anchor of a weight and type adequate to hold the boat with at least 30 metres (inshore), 50 metres (offshore) of line with 3 metres of chain.
Bailers and Bilge Pumps
Bailers or buckets and either manual, automatic or electric bilge pumps (particularly on inboard engine installations).
A fire extinguisher. Inboard engines should have an automatic fire extinguisher system installed in the engine compartment.
Hand or Foot Pump
A hand or foot pump capable of being operated below the gunwale.
A minimum of two paddles.
Painter and mooring lines. The painter should be shorter than the length of the boat so as not to foul the propeller should it fall into the water whilst underway.
Cleats, eyes and samson posts strong enough to tow the boat when waterlogged.
The items above are those which mainly ‘look after the boat’. Other important safety items, e.g. compass, flares, lifejackets, VHF radio, medical kit, charts, etc., should be carried. You can obtain professional advice on these items from your local maritime safety agency or national boating association.
Used trailers are generally in a poor condition and can sometimes seem to be more of a liability than an asset. (But not always, especially if the RIB has been regularly moved from cruise to cruise area). Ensure it fits the boat, providing sufficient support, and determine the existence and extent of rust, particularly in any box sections.
Brakes often become seized due to their frequent immersion in salt water, so don’t be put off immediately if this is the case. However, do check carefully how easily they release. Inspect the cables, making sure they appear to be good condition. Lastly, check the brakes don’t scrape or bind when the trailer is being towed.
Jack up the trailer and check for play in the wheel bearings. Also spin the wheel, listening for noise from the bearings. If the bearings are noisy, then the trailer is not in a good state to tow the boat. Always carry a spare wheel bearing when towing on road.
Check the Draw Bar and Hitch ensuring that the coupling bolts are tight. Brake the trailer and attempt to manoeuvre the hitch, checking for wear. Try to push the hitch back towards the trailer, it should slide slowly with some resistance. It should not slip in easily or seize up.
Winch mechanism; check the strap for deterioration. If there is a winch wire, then you’re better off replacing it with a strap, as this is a much safer option. Inspect the winch mechanism for jammed or worn pawls.
Trailer board; check that there is one, and that all lights are working.
Finally: – Try your prospective RIB buy on the water.
Check List – Buying a RIB?
Make/Model ………………………………….. Year ……….. Price ……….
First impression/general condition…………………………………………….
|Hull & Deck||Good||Fair||Poor||Engine & Steering||Good||Fair||Poor|
|Cracks/chips/grazing||General engine condition|
|Spongy deck||Signs of salt corrosion|
|Deck/Transom cracks||Cooling – ‘tell tail’|
|Console condition||Swivel bracket movement – outboards|
|Seating/Upholstery condition||Engine mountings movement|
|Storage watertightness||Propeller & skeg condition|
|Location of fuel tank(s) & batteries||Propeller shaft check|
|Tubes||Gearbox oil condition|
|Patches||Steering cables freedom of movement|
|Glue stains||Steering cable fittings|
|Bow seam adhesion||Hydraulic oil check & leaks|
|Port side seam adhesion||Steering play|
|Starboard side seam adhesion|
|Transom seams adhesion||Trailer|
|Aft tube cone seams||Boat properly supported|
|Baffles condition||Extent of rust|
|Condition of cables|
|General Equipment||Release of brakes|
|Anchor & Line||Wheel bearings condition|
|Bailers & Bilge pumps||Draw Bar & Hitch condition|
|Fire Extinguisher||Winch Mechanism|
|Towing Points||Tick relevant box|
This RIB buying guide courtesy of: www.hotribs.com
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